Three H's: The hostel, the Hopper landscape,
and deep seated hostility
Editorial from the September 7, 2007 version of the Cape Cod
Voice
Whose values are such that they would want to be known as
the people who forced a hostel, one of the last great idealistic
vestiges of inexpensive travel, to shut down?
And whose values are such that they would want to be known
as the people whose oversized mansion obliterated the soulful
landscape that inspired Edward Hopper during his Cape years?
The controversies are unrelated, hostel and Hopper, but at
the core of both is the same fundamental conflict. Each is
about legality versus legacy , private property rights versus-dare
we say it-some broader responsibility and sense of community.
First, the Eastham hostel.
For 40 years or so, a great hostel has served travelers from
all over the world, adventurous people who otherwise would
not be able to afford Cape Cod in the summer. They come by
bicycle, by car, by bus, even on foot. They convene in semi-private
or not-at-all private accommodations, to cook and eat together,
share stories and make friends. They are not always "youth"
but they are always youthful, interesting, engaged souls,
traveling light but traveling well. In all our years, we have
never heard of a case where this hostel has attracted crime
or bad behavior.
The organization that runs the hostel hoped to turn its building
into a greener place, use less fuel, become more attuned to
the philosophy and mission. Applying to Eastham for the necessary
approvals opened its Pandora's Box.
Abutters found that a quirk in the transfer of land years
ago ended the hostel's protection under zoning. The former
owners did not intend that, on the contrary. But the neighbors
now have a big stick. They are insisting the hostel close.
Hundreds of Eastham residents have responded with a petition
and protest. We doubt many of them have stayed in this hostel,
or any other. But they understand what this place means to
our community, and our psyche. To destroy it is to say once
again, in a new way, that only people with big money can come
to Cape Cod. To end its generations of hospitality is to signal
the demise of one of the few traditions left that encourages
and allows for transient diversity among us.
The neighbors have every legal right to investigate, challenge,
apply loopholes and zoning detail. But why would they resort
to such ugly, selfish tactics? So they don't have to see bicyclists
and backpackers walking down the road? So they don't have
to hear foreign languages and laughter at the end of a summer
day?
Do these people really think they should be able to destroy
a hostel, and then be welcome in the community they've bought
into? Do they not understand what it is they intend to obliterate,
in the name of their private property rights? Do they not
see that what they do now, for some kind of temporary idea
of personal gain, means the loss of a great community expression?
Hold those thoughts, while we turn to the Hopper landscape.
For 40 years or so, from 1930 through 1967, Edward Hopper
painted in South Truro, leaving and artistic legacy as profound
as any created on Cape Cod. From his studio and home on a
bluff overlooking Cape Cod Bay, he worked facing north and
using north light, pondering a low heathland that undulates
away from dunes along the shore, mimicking waves beyond.
The paintings he created here have fanned out across the
world, gracing the walls of the greatest museums, inspiring
millions of people. And in all our years we have heard nothing
but profound appreciation for the fact that the present owners
of the Hopper house (to whom it was given by the painter's
widow in 1968) have kept it much as he did, an evocative sentinel
to personal creativity and the Cape's inspiring beauty.
The rolling land to the north, where Hopper stared as he
worked, has changed little as well, and always seemed integral
to the vision and power of the setting. One chunk of it has
been put into conservation protection. But new owners purchased
the closest neighboring parcel for almost $7 million in May,
and immediately set about securing access and permits to allow
for a massive new home.
An existing homestead almost 200 years old, nestled into
the dunes long before Hopper arrived, just won't do. The new
owners, well known in the literati and upscale circles of
Truro, want to build a house on the highest point of the bluff,
directly in the Hopper view, that would total something like
6500 square feet. This would replace another controversial
home they had intended to build in what's called the Shearwater
section of Truro, which led to months of court battles with
neighbors, hundreds of thousands of dollars in legal fees,
and in the end approval for a much smaller mansion than the
original plans called for. That new construction is now on
the market-for $8.5 million.
Scores of Truro residents, art lovers, and environmentalists
up and down the Cape have responded with concern. We doubt
that many of them have set foot in the Hopper house, or painted
its setting. But they understand what this place means to
our community, and our psyche. To turn its landscape into
an extravagant unnecessary edifice is to say once again that
people with big money can dominate and transform Cape Cod.
And in truth, they can. They have the power, they have the
money, and often as not they have the legal right. But does
that mean they should? Why resort to such ugly, selfish tactics?
For an extra 4,000 square feet of angular interior space,
seemingly designed to house an ego rather than anything of
true human need? To create a monument to excess capital? Will
that make the owners happier, more fulfilled people?
Do they really think they should be able to "exercise their
legal prerogative," destroy what we call the Hopper landscape,
and then be welcome in the community they've bought into?
Do they not understand what it is they intend to obliterate,
in the name of their "rights"? Do they not see that what they
do now, for some kind of temporary idea of personal gain,
means the loss of a great community expression?
In both cases, the public has pressure points that might
affect the outcome, delaying tactics, strategic appeals. But
in both cases, the truly beautiful solutions would need to
come from a change of heart within the people who are forcing
the issue. At the risk of playing armchair shrink; we sense
that psychological counseling rather than government intervention
is what would work; that a profound change in goals and a
better understanding of why destructive behavior seems appropriate
is in order in both situations. Barring that internal, spiritual
shift, we fear bad outcomes-and of course suggesting this
course is completely inappropriate in a public conversation,
sure to do nothing but elicit a defensive reaction, sure to
be seen as condescending.
The old bumper sticker said that extinct is forever, and
applies here. Generations of owners can treat land with care,
scores of people can make a fair balance between personal
need and public good, but then comes one owner, one neighbor,
one misguided or needy spirit who decides to end a welcoming
piece of community, rip apart an historic landscape, and then
it's changed forever. It's over. It's gone. It can never come
back.
And so this editorial bank is really nothing more than a
verbose plea to the people who have the power to do that,
but who really don't need to do that:
Please reconsider.